Among the ancient Chinese weaving techniques/weaving machine, the most complex is the jacquard technique. In order to enable the loom to weave complex patterns repeatedly and regularly, people have successively invented the jacquard device with the heald and the pattern to store the pattern information, and formed the multi-heddle type jacquard machine and various pattern type jacquard machines. Jacquard technology is a milestone in textile history. The basic concept of jacquard machine is to store the jacquard pattern on the heddle of the loom or the heald connected to the heddle eye, and use the storage of the jacquard pattern to control the jacquard program, so that this memory Information is recycled.
Judging from today's technology, the jacquard technology invented by the ancients is a graphic information storage technology, just like a computer program. After programming, all operations can be repeated without restarting each time.
The multi-heddle jacquard machine is a kind of jacquard loom, which realizes jacquard weaving with multiple heald frames. However, it is limited by the weaving process, and the number of heald frames cannot be increased indefinitely. Therefore, the multi-heddle jacquard machine is mainly suitable for weaving jacquard fabrics with short longitudinal patterns and unlimited transverse patterns.
Based on the existing historical materials and the structural analysis of the unearthed silk cultural relics, the appearance of the loom should not be later than the Warring States Period. In 2012, four models of looms made of bamboo and wood were discovered at the Laoguanshan Han Tomb in Chengdu, Sichuan, with silk threads and dyes remaining on the parts. At the same time, there are 15 painted wooden figurines, which may be simulated reproductions of the weavers in the Shu brocade textile factory in the Han Dynasty from the figure and inscriptions. These loom models are the only complete Han Dynasty loom models found in my country so far, which are of great significance to the study of the origin and development of silk textile technology in China and the world.
Based on this research, the China National Silk Museum restored the Western Han hook and heald jacquard machine and weaving technology in 2015. In 2018, it further used the research results of the Han Dynasty jacquard machine unearthed in Laoguanshan to successfully replicate the "Five Stars Out of the East to Benefit China" Brocade.
Dingqiao loom is a type of multi-heddle multi-trap jacquard loom, which is a kind of belt loom in the countryside near Shuangliu County, Sichuan Province, China. It is called "Dingqiao Loom" because the pedals are covered with bamboo nails, which are shaped like stone piers arranged in sequence in a river ditch. Generally, this loom has 2~8 ground healds and 40~60 flower healds, each of which is controlled by a pedal, so the total number of pedals is the same as the total number of healds. This loom has a long history and has been recorded in the historical documents of the Three Kingdoms period. The Dingqiao loom is still passed down from generation to generation as a main hand loom among the people, and it is used to weave brocade and lace with ethnic customs.
In the past, the weft pattern cycle could not be expanded when weaving fabrics by the previous looms, so the weaving of pattern patterns was limited. For large patterns with large circulation and complex organization, such as flower patterns, animal patterns, etc., it was quite difficult to manufacture.
After long-term exploration and practice, people invented the beam-heddle jacquard machine on the basis of the original loom around the Eastern Han Dynasty in China.
The beam jacquard machine is a relatively complex loom. The most critical technology of this loom is cross-stitching and knotting. The flower book is used to store the jacquard program and memorize the changing rules of the pattern. The upper part of the loom is a loom component that controls the ups and downs of the warp threads of the jacquard machine. The biggest feature of the Hualou bunched jacquard machine is that the jacquard warp does not need to be controlled by the heddle, but instead is controlled by the wire heald, that is to say, there are as many jacquard warps as there are as many healds, and the wire healds with the same lifting movement are the ends. Hanging together on the flower building. When weaving, a weaver and a puller are required to cooperate. The puller sits on the flower building and pulls the horizontal thread of the flower, and lifts the corresponding warp to open the heald. The two should sing according to certain formulas, and coordinate with each other according to this rhythm.
Now SUNTECH also has the jacquard loom, if you have any requirement on the jacquard loom, feel free to contact us.