The invention and improvement of the cardboard equipment has reduced the difficulty of dragging the pattern and improved the accuracy of the fabric weaving. Compared with traditional pattern weaving, it is already a great progress. However, the looms at that time still required 2 people to operate, did not fundamentally and completely replace the flower pulling workers. It was not until 1748 that Jacques de Vaucanson developed the first fully automatic jacquard loom machine, which only required 1 weaver to operate the machine, truly liberated the labor force and realized the idea of replacing the weaving workers.
Invention of the Jacquard Loom Machine
Jacques de Vaucansen was a gifted mechanical designer who had been working on technological innovations and improvements in the silk industry before being invited by Philibert Orry (Louis XV's finance director). After he entered the silk weaving industry in 1741, he made some small improvements to the loom and finally manufactured the first automatic jacquard loom machine at 1748. This jacquard loom machine draws on the cylinder design of the Renier loom, and moves this part of the device from the side to the top of the loom. Through a series of mechanical structures, the cylinder can automatically roll, move the corrugated plate, and realize warp lifting control.
The modern Jacquard loom machine is also called the Jacquard loom. Jacquard is not the inventor of the Jacquard loom machine, but a master who integrated the previous technologies. He borrowed the respective advantages of Bousson, Falken and Dvorcanson looms to manufacture Jacquard loom machines. But in fact, the jacquard loom machines at that time had many disadvantages, such as loud mechanical system noise and laborious operation, so they were not widely used at that time. The man who really made the jacquard loom practical was Jean Antoine Breton. From the patents he applied for in 1815 and 1817, it can be found that Braton reduced the cost while reducing a large amount of vibration and resistance when the loom was working by continuously simplifying and optimizing the mechanical parts of the automatic jacquard device of the Jacquard loom machine, thus making the operation smoother and easier. At the same time, he uses positioning holes to solve the problem of card slippage, so that the automatically rolling card can correspond to the corresponding crochet needles one by one. This marked the birth of the real jacquard loom machine.
The Improvement of Jacquard Loom Machine
Throughout the technical improvement of the French jacquard loom machine, the original prototype and the basic weaving principle of the jacquard loom machine, all come from the figure machine in China, which needs 2 workers cooperate at the same time to weave fabrics. Due to the hard and boring work of dragging, few people are willing to engage in this type of work, and mistakes are prone to occur in the weaving process, which leads to errors in weaving fabric patterns. Based on these 2 points, French jacquard loom machine technology improvement has been committed to finding a system that can replace the work of draggers. After sorting out the data, it is found that among the technical improvements from the 17th to the 19th century, the main improvement is concentrated on the part that controls the warp lifting, that is, the modern jacquard bridle, and there are few changes in the weaving part of the jacquard loom machine. The revolution of the wire heald jacquard loom machine is mainly from the use of traditional patterns in the 15th century to the use of pattern plates in 1725.
In the 19th century, Jacquard loom machine were introduced to Germany, and German craftsmen tried to use iron instead of wood to produce loom parts, so it gradually evolved into iron jacquard loom machines, and then spread back to France and other places. The jacquard loom machines currently used by silk enterprises in Hoi An, Vietnam are iron looms. The structure of the jacquard bridle part of the loom is similar to that of the 18th century jacquard loom, and the principle is basically the same.