In daily life, have you paid attention to the clothes you wear and how the furniture products you use are produced? Have you ever understood what jacquard fabric is? How is jacquard fabric produced? How does a jacquard loom work?

I. What is jacquard process?

The process of jacquard originates from the original waist machine cross-stitching. The jacquard pattern has been found in the fabrics unearthed in the Shang Dynasty. Most of the jacquard weave patterns in this period are linear.

Rhombus,  "cup" and geometric variants of the straight lines of these patterns. In the Qin and Han Dynasties, the silk jacquard fabric pattern was based on the pre-Qin geometric pattern.

On the basis, small flower patterns such as birds and beasts, clouds and a small amount of plants are added. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, lotus flowers, curly grass, sketch flowers and other plants were full of shapes and rounded.

Patterns and other patterns suddenly appeared on silk jacquard fabrics, and plant patterns appeared rich and rich in style. By the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, silk jacquard fabric patterns were natural and smooth.Slim and fine.

II. Origin of Jacquard Machine

In 1801, Frenchman Jacquard invented a new generation of jacquard machine on the basis of the Chinese beam heddle jacquard machine, and replaced the pattern with the perforated pattern, thus bringing the silk weaving jacquard technology into a new era. Most of the patterns currently used in China are this kind of pattern.

Flower machines, and gradually move towards computer automation.

III. Structure principle of mechanical jacquard machine

1. The opening mechanism of the jacquard machine is equipped with a set of vertical needles (straight needles or vertical hooks) and a knife holder, which is equipped with several knives. The tool holder is directly driven by the main shaft to lift the vertical needle. The spindle rotates once, and the tool rest rises and falls twice to form a shed.

2. The warp yarn passes through the eyelet of the heald wire, and the lower end of the heald wire hangs a heavy hammer, which plays the role of returning the heald; the through wire passes through the eyelet of the eye plate and is connected to the hook, the upper end of the hook is the first thread, and the vertical needle passes through the first thread and the through thread. wire connected.

3. When the hook end of the vertical needle is above the knife, the knife holder moves upward, and the knife lifts the vertical needle accordingly. The heald is lifted by the head thread, hook, harness, braided thread, and the warp thread in the heddle eye is lifted.

4. When the knife rest rises and the bottom plate descends, the vertical needles that have not been lifted will also descend, and the controlled warp yarn will descend. The raised warp yarns form the upper shed and the lowered warp yarns form the lower shed.

IV. Structure principle of electronic jacquard loom

With the development of mechatronics, electronic jacquard appeared in 1983. All electronic jacquard machines are double-action full-opening jacquard machines, without external pattern boards and flower tubes. It is used in conjunction with computer craftsmanship system to control the ups and downs of warp yarns with only one EPROM card. It is a good tool for pattern weaving CAD and CAM. combine. The electronic jacquard machine is suitable for the production of small batches and multiple colors, and is more suitable for the production of high-grade textiles.

The needle selection mechanism of the electronic jacquard machine is composed of many solenoid valves. There is a pair of hooks under each solenoid valve, and the thread handle can be hung under the hook. We can call the hook and the corresponding solenoid valve an electronic needle. The hook of the electronic jacquard machine is light, fast and smooth, and can be matched with any high-speed loom.

The common electronic jacquard machines include the British Bonas electronic jacquard machine, the French Staubli electronic jacquard machine and the German Gross electronic jacquard machine.

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